Roksanda rocks with a rainbow palette

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Feb 18, 2019

There’s a sense of crisis in the air in London – not so surprisingly, given Brexit and other issues – that has been influencing fashion in the UK capital. Most notably, at Roksanda, eponymous label of the bold and brilliant Serbian designer whose shows are some of the most anticipated in the London season.

Ilincic is a courageous designer. Her clothes are highly romantic but never insipid or sentimental. She has the most original color palette in Britain; culling all sorts of tonalities from a magic box she keeps containing fabric swatches, postcards and ripped out photo book pages. 
 
The result this season was a marvelous amalgam of faded canary yellows; dusty pinks; dark cappuccino and intense crimsons. A rocking rainbow palette.

Staged on a chilly Monday morning inside the Old Selfridges Hotel, the set was collaboration with the contemporary artistic group Troika, who installed an ecru wall and sand runway, dissected by plastic panels in colors that matched the clothes.
 
“My colors are always intuitive, neutrals with brights; colors that should really work together. I wanted a rainbow in the clouds,” Ilincic explained.
 
Ilincic cuts with enormous assurance – whether voluminous dresses finished with mini capes, massive ruffles or twisting bows. Though she took a new tack in this fall 2019 collection with some great protective parkas and padded jackets and gilets that had a regal air. 

 
The soundtrack added to the mood; John Cage being interviewed over dramatic music by Alcor, injecting a sense of spectacle.
 
For evening, she sent out perfectly judged chiffon layered looks finished with ostrich feathers, made in bitter lemon, lilac and blinding white. Then, in some stunning prints, she incorporated images of 1970s office buildings into delightful chiffon dresses. All thoroughly modern and a perfect juxtaposition to her more defensive-like garments.
 
“Yes, my clothes are more protective this season, which is a contrast. We live in the time of crazy contrast; and the feeling of crisis. I wonder why? And I don’t think I am the only designer feeling that!” smiled Ilincic.